Rescuing squirrels and wild rodents

Most of the phone calls that Small Victories (our former rescue) have received over the past few years have been regarding young squirrels found outside of their nests, injured squirrels, and errant mouse-like creatures (rats are pretty easy to identify).

• If you are looking to solve a problem with an animal that’s taken up unwanted residence, contact Humane Wildlife Control. 

Here is your basic advice on what to do and how to care for wild rodents:

1. Goat milk is the universal replacement milk.
2. Soy milk comes a close second.
3. Rabbits take puppy formula, but not kitten formula. 
4. Don't take a baby rabbit (or even a bird) from the wild just because it's alone. Its mother will come back to look for it. You must be sure it's abandoned by its physical condition, or by monitoring it regularly throughout the day, without touching it.
5. What small animals in distress need is 1) warmth and 2) liquid energy.
6. Sometimes they actually need to see a vet, too.
7. But if they don't, they need a secure, warm (but not too warm), dark (away from prying eyes) space in which they can recover.
8. Babies need to be fed every few hours. Count on one overnight feeding.
9. Squirrels sleep 75% of the time.
10. Once a squirrel's tail begins to be bushy, it needs solid food (start with porridge) and climbing exercise.
11. You can't keep them and domesticate them. It's inhumane to cage a wild animal for long, and it's illegal.
12. Take the squirrel outside for walks. Introduce it to trees.
13. Handle small rodents as little as possible while you clean their cage.
14. Release mice in an environment as similar as possible to the one in which you found them. If it's a house mouse you don't want, find it a secure shelter where it won't be bothering anyone - or unlikely to be poisoned.
15. Don’t feed wildlife you don’t want to increase in population. I didn't mind having a wild rat sheltering in my backyard, but for its own safety, I removed the bird feeder. 

General shelter volunteer jobs

Are you hesitant to get involved because it seems like being involved in animal rescue is such a huge demand? If so, don't worry, it can be done in manageable enough bites that you can get involved without getting burned out. The following jobs add to your skills and networks, and are very favourable for work experience on your resume.

Positions:

Advertising liaison - creating and mailing out or posting Adoption flyers at petstores and vet clinics on a monthly basis. Anyone is welcome to approach new pet stores and vet clinics and other locations for posting our flyers; after initial contact is made, we will add them to our mailing list.

Fundraiser - shelters and rescues always need someone with events-planning experience or interest who can help get fundraising activities under way. Telephone calls are a major part of this work.

Adoption agents - mainly for organizing and staffing adoption clinics. Also involved in interviewing candidates after paperwork has come in to determine if they will be a good home, including some home visits. Bilingualism is an asset.

Written Communications - E-mail is the biggest routine job after cleaning cages and looking after the animals. Rescues need someone with writing skills and communication empathy to help with this work.

Advocate - someone (or two) with public relations and/or legal experience to raise awareness of animal welfare issues and to help make the ship watertight; this position may be key in making an organization a registered non-profit / charity. Bilingualism is an asset.

Translation - from time to time, a shelter needs fast turnaround on translation jobs.

Handyman - if you have a knack for building, maintaining, painting, shelters and rescues can always use your help. They have shelving units that need to be straightened and mounted properly, units to build, and repairs to make!

Seamstress - if you have a sewing machine and skills to make hammocks and toys for fundraising and for shelter pets!

Pet forum liaison - this is a job some of you perform already! As shelter /rescue staff don't have time to spend on the forums, they miss out on opportunities to get to know the extended small animal community. You don't have to do it officially on their behalf, though you can give the rescue or a shelter a mention when it's relevant. If a positive adoption prospect comes forward, just provide the shelter the details of who they are - lend your support to adoption agent(s) in screening homes. French or English or any language - according to forums you visit!

And finally: Cuddler.

At most animal shelters, most small animals are treated for health problems only if it's easy to treat, otherwise, they will be euthanized. For these reasons, they are not "safe." They are mostly being kept in good conditions - although they may not always be on the best bedding or have a proper diet. They aren't let out for exercise except perhaps with volunteers.

Shelters need volunteers to go in and cuddle the rodents. This keeps them well-socialized and alleviates boredom in the cage. About 3-4 volunteers are needed, and you are only asked for a consistent schedule. Also, the more small animal volunteers there are, the more weight is given when they raise concerns about illnesses and healthcare.

Spaying and neutering

Spaying and neutering larger rodents and rabbits is most cost-effective when they are young. How you measure cost-effectiveness is something we go into on this page, because cost is a factor of why people do not spay or neuter their pets.

Basic cost-effectiveness is taking the cost of the operation and dividing it up by the number of months you reasonably expect the animal to live. For example, if it is a young rat, start with 24 months. So a $120 procedure amounts to (the time value of money not included) $5 a month. Can you afford that? Probably.

If you keep only one sex, or else are completely responsible and keep males and females separate at all times, then do-nothing is a viable option for you. However, there are some health and behaviour benefits for spaying and neutering.

Females who are spayed at a young age are much less susceptible to mammary and/or uterine tumours. The cost of a tumour removal is commensurate with the cost of spaying, AND tumours often come back, so two operations can be assumed.

Sometimes neutering is required if you have a particularly aggressive or territorial male who won't get along with his cage mates, or who needs for his own good and your convenience to be integrated with other males. Or he could simply be a lucky fella because he'll have a female cage mate. (I know we like to anthropomorphize, but rats do not mate for life. Nonetheless, domestic rats do form pairs and the bond can be quite strong.)

If you think your rat is already pregnant…

Make a wise investment in yourself and your pet. If she could be pregnant, take her to the vet and see about spaying her. It is not too late until the vet tells you it is. If she is young, she will derive benefits by reducing tumour occurrences when she's older. If she's older, it could save her life from a difficult birth.

One way of telling early on if she's pregnant, well before she develops a distinctive pear-shape, is to weigh her daily on a postal scale. An increase in weight is a strong indication if you have reason to suspect she's been in contact with males.

The cost of spaying a rat, chinchilla or a rabbit varies; in Montreal, it's about $170. Remember: once a rat is spayed, you never have to worry about her getting pregnant again. All other alternatives mean it could be a repeat performance.
Rabbits have litters of 3 - 6 babies.
Chinchilla have only 1 - 2 babies, but remember - they live 15 years!
Rats have litters from 4 - 18 babies. Healthy moms usually have about 10 - 14.
The cost of a caesarian section should the birth go badly: $140 and up. Other assistance is additional, i.e. emergency hospital admission fees, because you don't get to choose the hour of birth. If a rat is in labour for more than 3 hours, she is in trouble! Do not wait!
The cost of euthanizing pinkies (termed culling), if you choose to go that route: $50 and up. Home culling is a crime. It is also very sad, as the mother will look for the babies she loses.
The cost of upgrading the cage size to accommodate Mama and 5 - 8 daughters: $100
The cost of a second cage or two to house 5 - 8 males at 5 weeks of age: $100
The cost of food and bedding for a period of six months, estimated duration to adopt all babies (except one daughter to keep Mama company): at least $75 more than before
Realistic number of rats at shelters that don't find homes because your babies found those homes first: 4 – and an excellent chance that one of your babies in turn has babies, and those babies end up in the shelter.
The average cost per rat in treating mycoplasma or removing tumours, likely and predictable diseases, over a lifetime: $200
Cost of euthanasia at a shelter - available whenever an animal needs it: $2 - 5, paid by the shelter as people do not usually offer or agree to pay or donate for this service
Some municipalities pay the shelter for this fee, and the shelter responds to this money by refusing to partner up with rescue organizations to save lives - because if they don't euthanize the animal, they don't get the fee. Shelters cannot run on rain, sunshine, and goodwill alone.
Cost of a much more humane (under sedative or anaesthetic) euthanasia at an exotic vet: $15 - 22 per small animal, paid by the client

So, if you don't spay your potentially pregnant rat, chinchilla, or rabbit, you are still spending money, and spending other people's money (or not spending money by subjecting the animal to cruelty). The chances of all babies making it into homes, where all their needs will be looked after all their lives, are not so good. Moreover, there are so many pets already living in this world, who deserve a better chance at being the pets they were supposed to be. You can help them first and foremost by not adding to their numbers.

Not ALL pet stores are evil

We have often said that pet stores are not a good source to get pets. This is from the experience that they don't always know their stuff, and they carry and often recommend products that can be harmful to our pets' health.

The real trouble is that pet stores purchase their pets from breeders who are not interested in the home the pet gets - they are interested in the income or the "cool" factor that they have such a hobby. Pet stores and their breeder suppliers want the looks that get a buyer interested, but should realize they are gambling with the animal's health and longevity. Pet stores often do not look into the living conditions or genetics/pedigree planning of the breeder's operation, and some may find it cheaper and easier to do it badly in-house. Animals are rarely born one-at-a-time, so while one or two babies in the litter are sellable, what happens to the rest?

So what's a pet store to do? Where else are people going to get pets? A store can still be involved when it:

- helps shelters place rescue animals by participating in an adoption program,
- acts as a shelter with due vet care for surrendered animals,
- posts ads for members of the public who need to rehome their pets (but not advertise to find -sires or dams, or to sell intentional litters),
-  rather than take the animals in-house, refers customers to registered breeders who have been evaluated with strong criteria
- refuses to breed or sell live "feeder" animals and educates those who ask for live feeders why this is a bad practice. The store should offer substitute products and suggestions for alternatives, and, barring that, document how its frozen feeders were killed as humanely as possible.

This is a store that helps perpetuate humane responsibility, with all its costs and rewards. It is honestly a happy place for animals.

A pet shop that doesn't carry animals can carry a wider variety of stock, which it must move to be profitable. It should be supported by its local clientele.

If, however, a store is not taking responsibility according to these guidelines, it is participating in a black-market, cruel economy that necessarily takes place hidden, behind closed doors, and whitewashed by our political system’s lack of will to regulate.

Here are some good ones:

Montreal Critters takes you shopping with your pet, which is nifty and cute. They carry quality supplies, and $10 shipping across Canada.

Global Pets - Pitou, Minou & Compagnons in
Plaza Pointe-Claire has a huge selection for all pets

In Ontario, Pet-Valu carries a full line of products suitable for small animals, and they sometimes display adoptable pets in co-operation with an animal shelter or rescue.

Comments are open for you to suggest your own!

Live Cargo shipping to move or travel with pets

A safer alternative: Live Cargo shipping
One experienced list member's advice on flying with rats

I have shipped rats a few times now and if I were you I would get a small proper carrying cage (airline approved) - even safer if people can see inside.

Animals are sent out Cargo every single day and I found them wonderful looking out for my rats on the day of the event every time I shipped them.

I nailed a little hard sided house about 1/4 the size of the required airline carrier securely in place. It had a blanket all fluffed up inside in layers in case it was too cold or they wanted to hide. I had a towel and a good quality small bottle in it well taped on, some lab blocks as well as some grapes that keep well and carrots soaked in ice water.

I made sure the carrier was well marked, "This way up small animals" and my name, address and phone number attached as well.

I also found the staff very nice, most helpful and more people saying "oh aren't they cute" or they simply did not bother to comment at all.

On one trip a while back some of my rats missed their connection and were looked after by a nice stewardess who checked their water bottle that was taped on. She assured me they would be watched and put right on the next plane.

I know one cargo guy who is a friend of our family at the Ottawa airport and he is in charge of Cargo and takes the animals and sees they are put on the plane too. I saw it happen myself and the animals were driven from inside right to the plane and carefully put on. They sent a special truck to get my rats for me too when they arrived.

The Cargo department's temperature is controlled as well and he says the airlines have to be careful and look after animals best they can, just like people. They don't want any more trouble than needed either.

I think if you see that your rat is put on and locked up carefully, and it has a warm bed inside with some grapes and soaked carrots, and the flight is not way over 13 hours like mine was, or a change of planes, you will be just fine.

I am not saying things never go wrong and others have not had some bad luck but many animals go in and out every day from our airport and do just fine. You will hear some bad experiences but hardly ever hear any good ones. I had three pretty good ones and a lot of people do care.

My good version is when travelling through customs and a 13 hour flight and 2 planes with a transfer my rats woke up and stretched and yawned and greeted me at the door saying, "Oh are we here now? Time to get up?"

Good luck to you!

Fostering pets, or surrendering them?

"It is not easy to manage young humans and animals, but when parents find solutions, rather than dispose of an animal for convenience sake, an important concept is communicated to the child. This is alive. This is valuable. You don't throw it away."
- Marinell Harriman


This page is about two sides of the same coin.

First, the good news: You - the student, the expatriate, the person here for only a short while - you are absolutely needed! Foster homes are for those animals who need a little extra help to get better (health, behaviour) prior to adoption, or find a home when their time at the shelter has run out. You may have the pet for a week or a month or a year, but you know the pet will be taken care of by you - and vice versa, after all, pets are friends! - until its forever home is found - and you get to enjoy the experience without any guilt over your inability to commit for life.

If you've never had rats, mice, gerbils, degus, hamsters, guinea pigs, or any other shelter pet before, this is a good way to see whether they are the pets for you - you will be well-supported by knowledgable people. With no other pets of the same species at home, you'll also provide a valuable service by acting as a quarantine - something much-needed to keep pets healthy. Please contact your local shelter today!

About surrendering - the right thing to do, if done right

And for you, the person in need of finding a new home for a pet: The bad news. Shelters get more calls about surrendering animals than they do for adopting animals. No-kill rescues get even fewer adoptions because people know the animals are safe there. So some new protégés are denied an opportunity for this standard of shelter, because the rescue doesn't have a high enough turnover. We only hope most pets get adopted directly from the shelter in these cases.

Even if a shelter had more adoptions than inquiries to surrender, they might still attempt to address any reasons why you want to give your animal up. This is educational, so avail yourself of it. The problem might not be the pet, but what you don't know.

Some volunteers - upon request - will send out an e-mail on your pet's behalf to networks they are familiar with, to try to find it a home. You need to do the same - research the pet forums and e-mail lists pertinent to your pet, and network with your friends and family to find a new home.

When a shelter is full, and you wish to find your pet (or a pet you found) a new home through them, you must to foster it yourself until it is adopted. For the extra help, a donation to the shelter is warranted.

If you find a home for your pet before they do, ask about sending the person to the shelter for screening. Otherwise you risk a less-than-ideal home for the pet, and they, for having advertised the pet, risk their reputation should the pet be handled in an unethical manner in the process.

In addition, while trying to rehome a pet, you are still responsible for any veterinary needs should your animal become sick. It is not a grey area - the pet is still in your care and you can't deny it what you wouldn't deny a human. Animals do not show sickness until they are truly sick, so do something!

When you take a pet to a pound or a kill shelter, put what is called a "Do Not Destroy" on its file, and leave a donation for its care! If the shelter refuses, do not leave your pet there. They simply need to improve their procedures.

If you get the call that they are ready to give you back your pet or else euthanize it, take the call and respond right away, or the pet will be euthanized shortly.

If you don't know what else to do, then take the animal to your own vet and euthanize it. Euthanasia is a heart-breaking job when the animal is healthy; but when it has no alternative but a life of cruelty or capriciousness in the hands of anyone but its own family, it is better off getting sent off to the long sleep by its family. Be with your pet, don't just say goodbye and leave it in the vet's hands. This is your job.

This is not heartless, guilt-inducing nonsense: This is the way it is. We have a moral obligation to care for our pets, and to take responsibility for them. And by "we," we mean everyone. No one is exempt. Some just want to escape responsibility.

About live feeding

Feeding live captive animals to another animal is "natural and healthy," but a serious act of cruelty. The “cycle of life” has already been broken in keeping a pet snake, and at liberty, their prey is both more varied and fortunate. We don’t require our pet dogs to scavenge and cats to hunt in order to feed them, we interact with them - just as we should with our snakes. There are many humane alternatives that veterinarians recommend. You can substitute humanely pre-killed, frozen (not frozen-to-death, as some pet stores do) prey - but I do not love this idea because it is still a waste of a life, when there are other meat by-products such as poultry necks or packaged diets. A supply of meal worms, eggs in the shell, and other supplemented alternatives is just as available as live mice and rats. You can use tongs to hold the “prey” to entice the snake with movement. Please avail people of this information!

Unfortunately, small animals are often considered convenience pets, not thoroughly researched, because they are so affordable. As it's a caged pet that can't come right up to you, they can be more easily ignored - which is unkind, and owners can become "busy," which often means disinterested. For some, a small animal's short life is actually a selling point because some people consider small animals to be of no great consequence.

An animal once rejected is lucky to arrive on the doorstep of compassionate and knowledgable people. We assess its health, rehabilitate behavioural problems, and look after it until it is adopted or until it dies of natural causes (in palliative care).

We take commitments to animals seriously, and to never have one subjected to a capricious existence is our goal.